With the flooding of 2500 acres on Agency Lake (Upper Klamath Lake) by the Nature Conservancy, duck hunters have been probing and exploring the new terrain. Prior to the breaching of the dykes, I met an old duck hunter out on the lake one blue-bird day. We crossed paths on the open water and cut our engines to chat. He is in his mid-seventies, and he has been hunting the lake for over forty years. I candidly admitted that I had been lost in the fog twice that year and was contemplating buying a GPS. He was excited about the upcoming flooding and reclamation of old marsh. "Do you realize," he said, "that we have the opportunity to study and chart the flight patterns of ducks and geese on uncharted grounds. Get a GPS and keep notes!"
My first hunt was a disaster. I picked a partially submerged dyke with broken willows to back my grassed boat up against. In front of me I had a small body of water about twenty yards wide that followed the old dyke. This sliver of water ended up against a floating mat of straw that stretched for a half a mile. On the other side of this impenetrable tangle of mat, hundreds of birds flew in from the lake, crossed the new open water tracts and landed on the edges of the straw to rest. Six weeks into the season, the birds climbed high over every tree lined dyke. Probing the water I found depths of three to five feet on the edge of the vast swath of floating straw from the fall harvest. The next day I headed over to the Williams River area to find cover.
I positioned my boat in a cluster of willows with shallow water all around me. For the next three hunts, I did very well calling small flights of teal and lone mallards. I watched hunters at mid-day fire up their Mud Buddies and explore the area for back-water mallard water. My mid-November the large flights of teal zig-zagging across the new water seemed to disappear. The birds were not dropping into my stool and almost all of the flying birds were not responding to my calls. Even more frustrating, my boat was not positioned correctly for pass shooting. I watched enviously as some duck hunters fired at birds from their boat out in a maze of floating mat and tulle patches. As if I had eaten sour grapes for lunch, I told Don that they were probably shooting at divers.
Towards the Williamson River a few fields remain uncovered by water but without any cover.
Coming in from my last hunt with one bird in hand, I decided to get as close to the shallows as I could. Earlier I had observed that the eastern edges of this new tract met fallow grounds infested with tall weeds. On my first outings I had not disturbed any large concentrations of birds hiding in the thick maze. But this time my old friend Don Archer and I watched as mallards jumped from the edges as far back as a fifty yards in this weed, congested thicket. I looked for any tell-tale signs of a boat dragged into this cover, but I found no signs. I stood up on the highest position on my boat and yelled Eureka! I spotted a pot-hole in the jungle. Meanwhile, the birds we jumped were already circling back and dropping into the tangled web of brush and weeds. Moving down the shoreline I spotted another pot-hole and some dark silhouettes. "Oh, oh," I said to Don. "I think I am looking at some decoys." Just then a guy stood up and lifted both arms in the air in frustration. They had passed up firing on ducks directly overhead not wanting to give their secret location away to us. I gave a friendly gesture back and moved out of the area. At least he had not given me the middle finger salute. I have been very tolerant of exploring duck hunters stumbling onto my spread. After all, the flooding took place almost a month after the season opened. I hope this courtesy continues as duck hunters move in and out of the area trying to find good locations.
Don Archer waits for my lab Buddy to take a leak.
Initially I was worried that too many hunters would pour into the area. So far that has not been the case. Most of the newly flooded land is large tracts of open water adjoining the lake. Many of the local hunters still return to their favorite spots at the mouth of the Williamson River and along the tulle shores of the straits. With the exception of divers, mid season typically slows in the number of puddle ducks that stay in the area. I am just delighted, however, that in these times of high fuel costs, I have a new hunting area only a few miles from my home. It will be interesting to see how the new marsh comes to life with tulles and bulrushes. A spokesman for the Nature Conservancy said that in a test section the tulles came up in two years and in five years the test section had matured. So far I have only found three entrances through the "breached" dykes, although the tract can be accessed from the Williamson River. Any duck hunter worth his salt will find the "secret spots." If we are tolerant of each other this season and demonstrate good manners in the marsh, all of us are going to have a lot of fun figuring out how to hunt this newly created marsh. Additional marsh will be created east of the Williamson River adjacent to Goose Bay. According to Matt Barry, project manager for the Conservancy, as reported in the Herald and News, November 19, 2007, 2200 additional acres will be flooded surrounding Goose Bay. Barry estimates that the water level will be lower than the other areas, which should attract puddle ducks. Best of luck!
Dave Archer
dave@glaciertoyellowstone.com
Note: I sculled for twenty years in California, Wyoming and Montana. After a ten year hiatus and two total shoulder replacements, I will give it another try this fall in my own scull boat design, which is similar to the Humboldt design.
Hunting ducks on open water in a scull boat had its beginnings during the market hunting era on both the East Coast and the West Coast. With the improvement in boat construction using fiberglass materials, sculling saw a resurgence during the 1960's and 1970's. Today dedicated scullers still ply their stealthy craft on waterways across the country. It is a small fraternity of men, however, and sometimes it can be tough to find a mentor. Much information may be gleaned from an on-line sculler's forum and other dedicated sites. The following article covers the basics before someone attempts to buy a boat and learn on his own.
A traditional West Coast two-man scull boat is 14' in length and powered by a long, slender sculling oar that exits the stern through a rubber boot. Laying on his back, the sculler adjusts the oar so that the curved part of the blade is facing up and the flat side facing down. If you are right handed, the starting position would be to grip the end of the sculling oar so that your clenched hand is holding the oar in a straight line, resting slightly over your left shoulder. The sculling motion is a figure-eight rotation of your wrist. This pushing and pulling motion propels the boat forward. However, if it is not a fluid motion, the boat will rock from side to side. Do not exaggerate the figure eight motion. Keep it tight. If I am at rest and want to begin the process, I would cock my wrist in the downward motion, which then tips the blade on its side. I would then pull the handle up towards the top of the figure eight. At that top point I would rotate or cock my wrist back so that my next motion would be a push motion. The pushing motion would drop slightly to the bottom of the figure eight. At the top of the stroke, I rotate my wrist to the downward stroke and pull back. Naturally, the wider the figure eight and the slower the movement and the boat will begin rocking or moving more to one side or the other.
Turning the boat slightly necessitates that you either pull or push the oar in the figure-eight motion. For example, if the sculling oar is in the correct position with the flat bottom facing down, and you rotate your wrist and pull or push the oar, the nose of the boat will glide around to the new position. However, after each push or pull, you will need to re-position the oar straight behind you, flat side down so that it can slice through the water and not block the boat's turning progress. You wait to make some progress before repeating a push or pull movement. Slight adjustments while sculling is just a mater of prolonging a push or pull action slightly longer. (Yes, it is possible to scull in reverse, but I could never get my mind wrapped around the mechanics so I was never successful.)
Since the sculling boat has a long keel on the bottom, the keel helps track the boat in a straight line. Nonetheless, the trick is to keep the figure-eight strokes short so that before the boat goes off its straight line, the sculler adjusts or shortens the stroke with the opposite push or pull stroke. To increase speed, the left arm is lifted up so it is resting on top of the sculling oar with the left hand gripping the oar just in front of the right hand. You generally have to scrunch your body and shift to the side a bit, but this two-handed approach allows us weaklings a strong method for "sprinting" or closing the distance just before you sit up to shoot. Strong men close while sculling with their left arm and hold their shotgun with the right hand so that they lose no time sitting up and getting off a shot.
Most scullers use a kayak paddle or a set of oars when they want to retreat from rough water. In the past, I kept my life jacket as a pillow to prop up my head. The idea is that you want to have your eyes barely peaking over the front combing. (Black face) Because of the possibility of a wave rolling up the deck, a small combing is essential. Years ago the Lynn-Lee scullboat was equipped with a canvas wind shield. Similar to an old baby buggy, the windshield (wave shield) would pop up and be secured with two bungee cords.
The boat would seem dangerous, but I have been out in choppy water in three separate designs, and I always felt safe with a few exceptions where I found myself a mile from shore in rough water. In this situation, pull out the stowed outboard motor and head for shore using your kayak paddle to negotiate the waves. Another safety measure is too toss your lead weight overboard. Since you need about a 70 pound, lead ingot shoved to the very tip or bow of the boat, the easiest method is to have a long rope attached to the ingot. (This bow weight is to keep the bow tip as close to the water as possible. Birds looking at the approaching scull boat see a deck that gradually rises from the water to the combing. It looks like a partly submerged floating object.) At the end of the rope, attach the floating rope to a decoy. If the water is not too deep, the decoy will mark the spot so that you can retrieve the weight later. In twenty something years of sculling, I had to do this only once, although a number of times I pulled the weight to the center of the boat to keep the nose pointing up during rough weather.
So, just what is safe? I have seen scullers in really rough, choppy water, but I thought they were foolish. I head for shore when the gentle waves start lapping my boat or when I find that the boat is hard to control when it is lifted up in front. During rough weather, work the shoreline in two to three feet of water. It is hard to get off a good shot due to the rocking motion of the boat, but you will be amazed at how close you will get to the birds that have landed and walked up to the shore. I have also worked geese close to shore with two to three feet of waves. I would get within ten yards, but when I would drop into a trough, they would disappear. And when I tried to get off a shot, a wave would push me out of alignment. It was pretty funny the times that I would try it from the safety of near shorelines.
Scull boats make excellent layout boats in the marsh or in flooded fields. As always how well you cover the boat is a key factor. Remember also that you have a limited shooting arc of shoulder movement. You do not need camo or netting when you are sculling out in open water. The preferred color is dull, battleship gray.
Open water sculling is exciting. It is the essence of sneaking up on resting birds out in the open water. It can also be frustrating because larger flocks tend to jump early sending the entire raft into the air before you are in range. Ah, shit! You say to yourself as you sit up to stretch. To your great surprise a few singles in easy range jump when you sit up to stretch. Always sit still and survey the area before you sit up to stretch. I can't tell you how many single geese I have taken after the roar of thunder when a big flock got nervous and took flight. Early on in my learning curve I thought the remaining singles or pairs were wounded or crippled birds, but when I pursued them too fast, they would jump up and fly away! (You will need a good set of binoculars to spot birds that are worthy of a 100-yard scull.)
If you are new to the sport, pick off the trailing pairs and try and gradually separate them from the big flock. I would say that if you take your time, don't rock the boat or show too much of the boat's side profile, you have a good chance to separate birds and get off a shot. Regarding the first shot, I will say up front, that I have peppered resting birds with a sluice shot on open water many times. Giving how much work it is to spot a raft, sneak up on them and close the range, I will not apologize for occasionally sluicing birds on open water. Most of the time it is not necessary. Many times you will sit up and they freeze in shock. I have missed easy shots when this happens.
One effective open water tactic is to set a dozen decoys out in open water. Back off a hundred yards and drop a lone goose decoy or magnum mallard with a heavy weight. Tie your scull boat to the anchored decoy and stay put until birds land in the decoy zone. Sometimes after a scull you will head back to your anchor decoy and suddenly see two or three birds hanging out at your previous resting spot. Use the sun so that it is behind you. Resting birds don't like to look into the sun for very long if they think that you are just a slow drifting log or object. Fog is good until you get lost and birds appear out of nowhere ten feet from the boat. Needless to say too much fog defeats the purpose. I never wanted hamburger in the bottom of my boat.
Sculling into bays can be very effective. I have sculled on birds until I hit the mud and stopped forward progress. I have been within fifteen yards. Pick a single bird and stay with it until it drops. These are weird situations, and when I was young I would have visions of birds falling out of the sky with three shots! Flock shooting is a difficult lesson to learn. I ounce worked my sculling boat on swimming geese that headed to a flock of geese just off the shore. They went right into the "dekes". When I realized what I had done, I sat up unarmed and the birds took off right in their spread. Two Montana hunters stood up without shooting. They had a safe shot, but they too were shocked with the entire episode. They had never seen a scull boat before, and when they realized what I was doing they decided to honor my scull. Too bad no one shot as all three of us could have had a safe shot. They told me that if I could do it again at a safe angle, we should all shoot. I just laughed but later in the day I chased some mallards towards their spread. The birds got nervous and jumped up and flew into their decoys. Safely out of distance I watched them drop some mallards. I would think that a sculler at one end of a small lake would really be able to keep the birds moving down lake to a waiting layout boat hunter.
If you can get on a lake safely during winter, hunting the ice edges can be awesome. Bring a fishing pole with a nasty lure with large treble hooks to retrieve downed birds on the ice. Never go on the ice! Never go on a lake during winter unless you have an easy put-in and take-out! Don't bring a dog with you! Only go out on blue-bird days. Throw a white sheet on the deck, wear a white hat and jacket and you will have a blast. Finally, if you have a wet suit, wear it. To often, however, young men tend to push the envelope of safety resulting in tragedy. Regarding winter conditions, never scull on rivers! Scull boats cannot be turned sharply or quickly maneuvered. The only type of river I would scull on would be very slow stretches such as can be found on the Jefferson. Scull boats are not designed for rivers!
You will find many sculling sites on the Internet. You can still buy a boat in the Humboldt Bay area (Eureka, California). I do not believe that flat bottom sculling boats made out of wood are as effective as traditional designs. If I ever get around to posting this on my blog site, I'll post some of my old photographs, along with the scull boat that I am presently building. Heavier scull boats track in a straight line better than light boats. This is a fact. My best boat was a HEAVY wood / fiberglass boat. It had a FULL running keel. The cockpit combing was so high compared to other scull boats that it had a notch cut out up front to track the birds. I bought it from a man in Eureka who wanted to buy a two-man scull boat. That boat was the best damn boat I ever owned, and I have owned five scull boats, and I am presently building my last boat. One stroke and it would glide in a straight line effortlessly. I sold the boat to a friend so that I could have a two- man boat. Later the man who sold it to me tried to track the boat down after my friend sold it! Even when I was young, I would struggle loading it into my truck. I should have...yeah, I sold my 39 Chevy when I got out of the Army too!
Finally, the first season of sculling is quiet often disappointing. During the 70's I would watch men try and scull and end up selling their boats before the season was over. I didn't get many birds my first year, but I started getting close limits the following year. It is important that you have someone give you a lesson on sculling. Sit up on the deck combing and video-tape the lesson. Get on the sculling forum and ask questions. If you are going to hunt on open water far from shore, have someone on shore to come out for you in a "mother" boat if the weather changes. Cell phones are great for that situation. Better yet, tow the scull boat on a scouting trip and take turns with a friend during the middle of the day!
General Observations:
Closing the distance: Remember that when you are sculling or chasing birds on open water, they are swimming away from you. When they jump, you are shooting not their exposed breast and belly but their backs. You must be close for a clean kill, and truth be known, you end up shooting a lot of cripples on the water. Also keep in mind that when the birds jump, they are going to get a couple of wing beats, five to ten yards, before you can sit up, take aim and fire. (Shoot slightly under the birds as they rise off the water flying away from you.)
Study their behavior: If they stall and shift around, they are ready to jump. If you can see color and details, they are in range. If you have a pair that keeps turning left and then right to look at you while they are swimming, wait until they turn to a profile and then take the shot. Geese will simply try and out swim you so use two hands to close the distance or back off and go slower. If a couple of ducks or an entire raft jump when you are just out of range, NEVER fire. If you stay down, they will most often just glide a hundred yards and then land. I have closed in on geese like this two to three times before I dropped one or more of them. Again, remember that there will always be a few birds close by that stay on the water.
Blacken your face and keep your hands down: If geese swim to shore before you close the distance, they have an advantage as they can stretch their necks up and look inside your boat. If they see your arm or wrist move, they will sound the alarm. (90% of the birds that you flare will be because they saw your wrist move above the combing. Use a black golfer's glove to protect against blisters and camo the rest of your hand, along with your ENTIRE face, and NEVER move your head around to see which birds you will scull towards.) Just as you will have frustrating days wondering what you did wrong, you will have easy days when you scull within ten yards of ducks or geese.
Calm, sunny days are best because the boat has no chop slapping against the boat, and your scull can be smooth, silent and deadly.
Practice before the Season: It is essential that you practice your sculling techniques during the summer, and while you are at it, troll a fly or lure. The silent flash of the sculling oar attracts fish! The greatest challenge is to drop the oar and set the hook. The easiest birds to scull on are mallards, pintails and Canada geese. The most difficult birds to scull on (from my experience) is widgeon. They are nervous birds in a flock. They will start a roll where the nearest group flies up to the front positions, and then the roll continues.
Only use your binoculars for spotting and targeting birds. Sometimes you will lose them in the glare or fog and you will have to glass again to ascertain your bearings. Over-and-over again, throughout my years, I would spook birds that were close by when I slowly lifted up the binoculars. Sometimes it would be reflection off the lens, and sometimes it would be the movement.
Always blacken your face. If you wear glasses, use a single lens, as when you are laying on your back the bi-focals will get in your way.
If you penetrate a flock and parted birds see your side profile and movement of the oar out through the transom, they will flare. The biggest problem with sculling is heading into shore and running out of water. It sure is frustrating coming to a halt with undisturbed sleeping birds just out of effective killing range. If you scull shallow water, you will need a sculling blade that is straight versus the slightly dropped blade, which is most common. You need both types of blades on hand for shallow conditions.
Blades are made in a variety of materials and fiber glassed to a wood 1 ¼" closet pole. Here is what I have.
Blade length: 36 inches (rounded on top the height of the blade tapers to the tip of the blade. The blade and the handle are encased in cloth and resin)
Blade width: 3.5+ inches
The blade tapers to the tip at ¼ inch.
Where the blade connects to the pole, the thickness is 1 ¼ inch where the top of the blade slips into a vee in the pole. These measurements are the finished product when it is glassed. The notched vee in the pole and blade is 7 to 8 inches. Use a resin grout to fill any cracks, and then sand and shape it smooth and use cloth and resin from the tip up the pole for about eight inches. Sand and paint gray. (Tip: Cut a small V where your hand grip goes. This will indicate the correct position of the blade indicating correctly that the rounded or contoured edge of the blade is facing up. This is always the starting position.
I once had a shorter and fatter blade. The blade was made in a plaster mold with a balsa wood core. It too was a good blade. The key is that the blade must be flexible, even whippy.
I hope this helped.
Dave Archer
541-783-3796
You have to be passionate about designing and building your own boat from a plaster mold. You won't save any money, and the hours in construction are endless. Moreover, layering and shaping plaster is the easy part--waiting for the plaster to dry in cold weather is torture. And finally, when you build off a male plug, your boat will be smooth on the inside and rough on the outside. I decided that I would not be the perfectionist and sand and fair the lay up until it was smooth.
Begin by drawing and lofting your boat full scale. Break down your lofted plans to one-foot increments and pull off station ribs. Fasten your ribs with long strips of thin Masonite or paneling or any thin veneer that you can buy cheap. Use stuffed newspaper or foam for hard curves or the front of the boat. Cover with a fine mesh screen and start plastering.
I tried working with plaster in a cold shop that hovers around 40 degrees. It doesn't work, and I knew it wouldn't work from a previous plaster mold that I built 20 years ago. Funny how some people just ignore their past. Do your plasterwork during the spring and summer. Put your plug on a wheeled frame or wagon and pull it into your garage at night or if it looks like rain.
Sanding plaster is easy, but it is harmful to your lungs so always use a good respirator. When you have finished your work of art, you will need to paint the plug with a plastic varnish. I put on four coats and sanded each coat so that I ended up with a very fine finish. Now, put on at least four coats of release wax and buff each coat. Spray on a couple of coats of PVA release film just before you do your resin lay up.
Photo of Steve Barrows of Klamath Falls knelling in layout boat.
Warning: A one-off boat is just that! When you pull off your cured boat from the plaster mold, you will have to do some pounding with a rubber mallet. You will need to drive wedges between the mold and your finished boat. The mold will be destroyed. My combing, despite my efforts to flare the inside sides out for easy release, just didn't want to come off easily. I had to use a lot of force and scrape off the plaster later when the boat finally gave up the mold. I am still disappointed that this release was so difficult. I actually got two boats off, but the last boat literally destroyed the entire mold. It was real carnage. Again, this process is a ONE-off technigue.
You will need to build a top piece and a bottom piece, which you will join together. They must perfectly align. Note that the top piece of my layout boat is built on ¾-inch plywood. I marked a line and cut around the top piece, leaving a one-inch lip to facilitate bonding the two parts. I then made an exact pattern for the bottom half of the boat.
When I started designing my layout boat, I couldn't decide between a flat bottom or a slightly rounded bottom. I started surfing the web and found the Mighty Layout Boy's website. My top piece was a replica of an old boat that I built with a whaleback top, but their idea of a recessed bottom intrigued me. Their recessed, dropped floor is four inches below the waterline. I decided that my weight and my dog's weight would require five inches. Four inches would have been fine. I decided I wanted my layout boat to plane when pulled so I gradually tapered my bottom right up to the nosepiece. It pulled great until my friend and I made a turn out in open water with small white caps. The flared wing design and a broaching wave almost sank the layout boat. It was a sobering lesson. After all, the height from the water edge to the combing is only 11 inches! Add five inches under the flared sides and my total height from the bottom to the top of the combing is 16 inches.
My layout boat is 10.5'. The drawback is that it weighs 105 pounds. I used four layers of mat and probably too much resin, as I worked alone, and often found that I had to slather the resin on the mat and work like hell before it set up. This is not a good practice. Get help and keep the resin saturation to a minimum.
If you wonder what the hanging metal pieces are on the combing, they are metal hangers for netting. They were a pain in the ass, and I went to a permanent camo attachment. So just how low do you have to be in a layout boat? Could I build an aluminum frame to hide my lab and myself? Would the extra height defeat the design?
Using ½" aluminum tubing and flat strap pieces, I built a flat frame for my friend Steve. It has a flip-open door. It is especially effective out in the open water. My own frame has a flip-open door that is pushed behind me with an attached wood dowel. Laying down I am completely hidden, although my lab can be seen from behind. It worked great. I only need a little patch of tulles or grass. I soon found that I could sit up partially and lift the lid higher by using the dowel. If you look at my friend Steve sitting in decaying wocus, you can see that he has a clear advantage of not hunting with a dog and keeping a very low profile.
The layout boat is an awesome little boat. I will use it more and more. Looks like my expensive aluminum sled with mud motor will now be a ferryboat.
Building My Scull Boat
I hunted from a scull boat for over twenty years in three states. When arthritic shoulders caused me too much pain, and I could no longer sprint after geese, I sold my boat. As the years went by I felt a sadness that I no longer participated in this old tradition. When I met Matt Keller, a seventy year-old sculler, I knew that I wanted another scull boat, but this time I wanted to build it myself. After all, I had a 16' aluminum duck boat that I designed and built, I had a 10' pram that I made from plywood, I had a 13' aluminum river pram, and most recently I had built a layout boat. I had one more boat to build and that was a 14' scull boat.
I found a beat up bottom piece of a scull boat in Eureka, California. It was old and the seller had no idea where it came from. It had a big split in it, and it was warped. It only had a partial running keel, and the transom wood was completely rotten. Still, I figured it would save me countless hours in having to build an entire male mold from scratch. The split was easily repaired; the warpage and twist was another matter. I used a ton of plaster. So much so that in the end I decided to ignore the imperfections and just get it done.
My last boat that I used for years was a Lynn-Lee boat. These two men were welders in Benicia, California. I met them sculling on Cliffton Court Reservoir on the Sacramento delta. They were awesome scullers. When I met them I was on my third scull boat, but when I saw their boat, I knew I wanted one.
The truth of the matter, however, was that my second boat was the best scull boat that I ever owned. I sold it because it was a one-man boat. It too was made in Eureka. The man who sold it to me sold it for the same reason. He wanted to take a friend out. Later he tracked me down. He wanted his old boat back. "So do I," I replied. I loved that heavy old boat. So why was it so effective?
For one it had a full-length keel. Two, it was heavy. Once in motion it tracked well and glided through the water smoothly. Third, it had a higher combing. Birds never flared from my hands accidentally coming into view. I only have two old photographs of the boat, and I never measured any part of the boat. I just remember that laying down I had to look through a cut-out notch up front to track birds.
When I built this new scull boat, I agonized how high the combing should be. I lost faith in my old boat's design; after all, I sculled in that boat over 39 years ago. Perhaps it had a lower profile than I remembered. After all, lower is better! I ended up with 13 inches from the floor to the front combing. To my great disappointment, the transom rose to high from the slopping floor to the transom piece. This meant that my sculling oar hole would be above the water. Clearly, this is a disadvantage. For one, the sculling oar that I have does not drop quite enough. Secondly, because the hole is higher, it tends to push the end of the sculling oar higher, which means that one bad stroke and I would flare birds with the flash of my hand. I had Steve eyeball my simulated sculling motion, and he confirmed that I was not below the combing.
I had no hesitation now. I was forced to raise the combing from 13 inches to 17 inches, which is a whopping difference, and I have no doubts that in some conditions the additional inches will be a disadvantage. You will note that I have not as yet cut out the notch. I am waiting until I can afford a single lens pair of glasses. Right now I have tri-focals, and it is maddening trying to sneak up on birds looking through my reading lens.
I am writing this report three weeks into the 2010 season. On the first week of the season, my second total shoulder replacement failed again. Now I am healing with a hemi-arthoplasty shoulder procedure. I told my wife that I had to scull the new boat and that I wouldn't take no chances. I carefully launched the boat one-handed and sculled out on a tranquil Wocus Bay of Klamath Lake. With my protected right arm at my side, I made my first scull in 12 or more years. So, how did I do? How did the boat perform?
I built the boat heavy-duty. In the full-length keel I laid a cut piece of Trec, plastic decking. I smothered this piece in resin and chopped fiber. Later, when I add a piece of aluminum to protect the keel, the screws will be going into plastic decking material and resin. Under the deck I also used a track of decking to slide my old lead ingot right to the nose. It is, of course, attached to a rope, and at the end of the rope is a boat bumper in case I have to chuck it overboard during rough weather. With my ingot pushed forward, my oar in the new boot, I pushed away from the boat launch.
It tracked wonderfully. When I shifted my left leg higher, the boat leveled out fairly close to what I wanted. Rocking was minimal, and I thought hell yes I can still do this. In short time, my left shoulder, which has also been replaced, began to give out. I thought to myself that I was in trouble if this was only how far I could travel without discomfort. I turned around to look back at the parking lot, and all the trucks were quite small! Time for a serious scull I decided. I made two sculls and flared birds so I was bummed. I rested awhile and then sculled twice on pairs of resting ruddy ducks getting within ten yards.
The next day I went out to Rocky Point or Pelican Bay. My first two sculls were sneaking up on small groups of widgeon. They would have been marginal shots, but hunting with a sawed-off shotgun (legal at 19 1/8 inch) with only my left arm was dubious at best. I had another failed scull when I spotted redheads. Was my profile too high? Had I rocked the boat too much? The redheads were scattered in with a hundred coots. It was windy, but the small waves were not breaking. I was pooping out fast, but I was impressed with how well the boat cut through the wind and rolling waves. Finally, I got above them so that I could scull down wind on them. I was close enough to see all the color of their plumage, as they rose and dropped in the chop. It was not important for me to get off a shot. It was important to me to see if I could get under 20 yards, and I was close.
I suddenly saw that a lone red head was within 15 yards off my port side. He seemed oblivious to my presence, while I was sculling as fast as I could. I turned the boat towards the bird. I got off a shot one-armed with my left, non-shooting arm. I missed! I actually expected him to drop. He was jumping into the wind, but I had only one shot. On the way in I sculled on four red heads and got within good killing range, but I didn't bother trying to shoot. I had shot at one bird and made a couple of good sculls. I was exhausted and elated. Let the healing begin. I have great hope for next year. I am pleased with my new boat.
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Goose hunting in March? You bet, and it's legal if you hunt on private property for the special depredation hunt for White Front geese in Klamath County. The old refrain, "You should have been here last week," was answered with a "We were, and we got skunked!" Two hunters and a fumbling cameraman and none of us fired a shot on our first hunt. But how sweet it was on this last day of a short, special hunt, and it was, indeed a special hunt. The Duck Commander would stroke his scraggly beard and nod his head in approval.
I joined Steve Barrow and his brother Cliff southeast of Klamath Falls on a piece of private property wedged between a couple of irrigation ditches and a nearly dry creek. The small rivulet opened up to form numerous shallow mud depressions, which drew in returning mallards. The previous weekend we placed our goose decoys around the shallow depression of the creek bottom, and huddled in a small washout. It was a bluebird day, and the only two birds that came in range chuckled as they looked down on us eating lunch and swapping old stories. Today was different, however. It had the foggy promise of a good shoot. Packing our gear across the field, we could hear the high pitched honks and cackles of birds directly overhead, invisible in the fog.
Steve suggested we place the decoys out in the field within shooting range of the shallow drop-off above the creek. We huddled beneath a lone and very large cedar. One of the trunks had broken off so we had some cover. As I had decided not to pay for an out of state license, I brought my camera. The barrow brothers had no sooner taken their position when multiple flights of geese dropped down below the fog and spotted our decoys. Three groups of twenty to thirty birds merged in one flight circling our sixty foot cedar. They split around the tree on both sides and dropped into the decoys. The Barrow men know how to shoot. In seconds both men had their two goose limit. And I stood under the tree gazing through the branches as geese dropped out of the sky. My camera was out of reach. It was classic, and the best part was that for the next three hours Steve and his brother called in small flights, one after another, hoping I could get some decent camera shots.
I had nothing but problems with my digital camera, but I had one of the best "hunting" experiences of my life. The Duck Commander would have had to film for days to capture the action we had in four hours.
Dave Archer
]]>To check on stocking programs for the area, I learned from Dan Van Dyke at ODFW that a number of lakes are stocked with fingerlings every other year from helicopter. Of the Blue Canyon Group, Blue Canyon Lake, Carey Lake, and Horseshoe Lake are stocked. In the Seven Lakes Group, Alta Lake, Cliff Lake, Grass Lake, Ivern Lake and Middle Lake are also stocked every other year. Van Dyke went on to say that the growth of the fingerlings are slow, but it is not uncommon to catch rainbows and brooks up to seventeen inches with a string of moderate winters.
Statistics on the Lakes
Blue Canyon Group
Blue Canyon Lake - 2.5 acres; 18-feet depth; elevation 6,340
Carey Lake - 5 acres; 31-feet depth; elevation 6,020
Horseshoe Lake - 20 acres; 18-feet depth; elevation 5,230
Seven Lakes Group
Alta Lake - 32 acres; 13-feet depth; elevation 6,850
Cliff Lake - 10-acres; 15-feet depth; elevation 6,340
Grass Lake - 25 acres; 8-feet depth; elevation 6,040
Middle Lake - 20 acres; 12-feet depth; elevation 6,120
Van Dyke commented that Grass Lake typically held the largest fish, but they are known to be picky. Middle Lake took second place for fish size. Cliff Lake usually holds the smallest average sized fish, and the survival numbers go to Alta and Ivor Lakes. I also spoke to Jeff Von Kienast, wildlife biologist at the Prospect Ranger District. In years past both men have had good fishing in Grass Lake and Middle Lake. Jeff said that he had success fishing Middle Lake on the far side of the lake, and that a number of years ago he did very well at Grass Lake. Dan said that he took a number of Medford fly anglers into Grass Lake a few years ago and that anglers with float tubes did well while the shore anglers really struggled.
My first trip into the wilderness was from the trailhead at Fourmile Lake in early October, 2008. Our destination was Long Lake. We passed the first lake, and I noted that the shoreline was very shallow, and there was no way I could reach deeper water casting from shore. It was a harbinger of what was yet to come. Long Lake is beautiful, and we had a wonderful camping spot. From every elevated vantage point, I could see the shallow bottom for thirty yards and more. I never spotted a cruising fish. For two days and two evenings, I never spotted a rising fish. On October 25 I packed up the donkeys and headed into the Seven Lakes Basin.
This trip started out badly when I discovered the perverse machinations of the Forest Service. The Sevenmile Creek trailhead is two-fold - one for equestrian users and one for hikers. "No trailers beyond this point" read the sign, so I pulled into the equestrian trailhead parking lot. Towering above me was a steep mountain. Up and up we went traversing the switch backs to the crest. My mantra, taken from the children's book, The Little Engine that Could, began, "I think I can, I think I can, " and ended with sighs, coughs and grunts. Up over the ridge we went and spiraled down slope until I could see a sparkling spot of blue peeking through the dark forest. I was puzzled because I had only been hiking for fifty minutes, and my map showed no lake this early in the hike. Trudging down the trail, the forest thinned enough for me to see a dark blue Ford truck. Fifty-five minutes of hiking over a mountain top, and I had arrived at the hiker's trailhead!
Further in I met a hiker carrying a spinning outfit. He said that he had no luck at Grass Lake or Middle Lake, although he said that he had caught a few skinny fish at Cliff Lake. I camped at Grass Lake late that afternoon. From the hiker's trailhead, I made it to the lake in three hours, which included a 15 to 20 minute lunch break. The sign at Grass Lake pointed to the trailhead at 6.5 miles. Too pooped to fish, thanks to my extra hour of hiking, I studied the shoreline of Grass Lake and Middle Lake. Like Long Lake, the shoreline was very shallow, and I could see mud for thirty to forty yards. I never saw a rising fish that evening. The next morning I fished Middle Lake casting as far as I could, but I had no luck. The fact that I could not spot a single fish nagged me until I wondered if the severe winter of 2008 killed off a lot of fingerlings.
Dave Archer
Photographs courtesy of Don Archer
With the flooding of 2500 acres on Agency Lake (Upper Klamath Lake) by the Nature Conservancy, duck hunters have been probing and exploring the new terrain. Prior to the breaching of the dykes, I met an old duck hunter out on the lake one blue-bird day. We crossed paths on the open water and cut our engines to chat. He is in his mid-seventies, and he has been hunting the lake for over forty years. I candidly admitted that I had been lost in the fog twice that year and was contemplating buying a GPS. He was excited about the upcoming flooding and reclamation of old marsh. “Do you realize,” he said, “that we have the opportunity to study and chart the flight patterns of ducks and geese on uncharted grounds. Get a GPS and keep notes!”
My first hunt was a disaster. I picked a partially submerged dyke with broken willows to back my grassed boat up against. In front of me I had a small body of water about twenty yards wide that followed the old dyke. This sliver of water ended up against a floating mat of straw that stretched for a half a mile. On the other side of this impenetrable tangle of mat, hundreds of birds flew in from the lake, crossed the new open water tracts and landed on the edges of the straw to rest. Six weeks into the season, the birds climbed high over every tree lined dyke. Probing the water I found depths of three to five feet on the edge of the vast swath of floating straw from the fall harvest. The next day I headed over to the Williams River area to find cover.
I positioned my boat in a cluster of willows with shallow water all around me. For the next three hunts, I did very well calling small flights of teal and lone mallards. I watched hunters at mid-day fire up their Mud Buddies and explore the area for back-water mallard water. My mid-November the large flights of teal zig-zagging across the new water seemed to disappear. The birds were not dropping into my stool and almost all of the flying birds were not responding to my calls. Even more frustrating, my boat was not positioned correctly for pass shooting. I watched enviously as some duck hunters fired at birds from their boat out in a maze of floating mat and tulle patches. As if I had eaten sour grapes for lunch, I told Don that they were probably shooting at divers.
Towards the Williamson River a few fields remain uncovered by water but without any cover.
Coming in from my last hunt with one bird in hand, I decided to get as close to the shallows as I could. Earlier I had observed that the eastern edges of this new tract met fallow grounds infested with tall weeds. On my first outings I had not disturbed any large concentrations of birds hiding in the thick maze. But this time my old friend Don Archer and I watched as mallards jumped from the edges as far back as a fifty yards in this weed, congested thicket. I looked for any tell-tale signs of a boat dragged into this cover, but I found no signs. I stood up on the highest position on my boat and yelled Eureka! I spotted a pot-hole in the jungle. Meanwhile, the birds we jumped were already circling back and dropping into the tangled web of brush and weeds. Moving down the shoreline I spotted another pot-hole and some dark silhouettes. “Oh, oh,” I said to Don. “I think I am looking at some decoys.” Just then a guy stood up and lifted both arms in the air in frustration. They had passed up firing on ducks directly overhead not wanting to give their secret location away to us. I gave a friendly gesture back and moved out of the area. At least he had not given me the middle finger salute. I have been very tolerant of exploring duck hunters stumbling onto my spread. After all, the flooding took place almost a month after the season opened. I hope this courtesy continues as duck hunters move in and out of the area trying to find good locations.
Don Archer waits for my lab Buddy to take a leak.
Initially I was worried that too many hunters would pour into the area. So far that has not been the case. Most of the newly flooded land is large tracts of open water adjoining the lake. Many of the local hunters still return to their favorite spots at the mouth of the Williamson River and along the tulle shores of the straits. With the exception of divers, mid season typically slows in the number of puddle ducks that stay in the area. I am just delighted, however, that in these times of high fuel costs, I have a new hunting area only a few miles from my home. It will be interesting to see how the new marsh comes to life with tulles and bulrushes. A spokesman for the Nature Conservancy said that in a test section the tulles came up in two years and in five years the test section had matured. So far I have only found three entrances through the “breached” dykes, although the tract can be accessed from the Williamson River. Any duck hunter worth his salt will find the “secret spots.” If we are tolerant of each other this season and demonstrate good manners in the marsh, all of us are going to have a lot of fun figuring out how to hunt this newly created marsh. Additional marsh will be created east of the Williamson River adjacent to Goose Bay. According to Matt Barry, project manager for the Conservancy, as reported in the Herald and News, November 19, 2007, 2200 additional acres will be flooded surrounding Goose Bay. Barry estimates that the water level will be lower than the other areas, which should attract puddle ducks. Best of luck!
Dave Archer
dave@glaciertoyellowstone.com
About 35 years ago while I was attending Sonoma State College and residing in Santa Rosa, I picked up the San Francisco Chronicle and read Jim Freeman’s outdoor column. He had just returned from a fishing trip on the Upper Sacramento River, and he outlined his success on the river fishing with Ted Fay, a Dunsmuir angler and fly tier who had gained a reputation as one of the most knowledgeable anglers on the Upper Sac. Black and brown weighted Woolly Worms and Woolly Buggers in tandem dabbed and dropped along the sides of boulders both submerged and rising above the water column were tactics that produced then and will produce today. The next weekend I rushed up to the Upper Sacramento River to Dunsmuir and located Ted Fay’s home. Ted was on the river fishing, but his wife invited me inside. I asked if I could buy a few of Ted’s flies. The small living room was cluttered with fly tying equipment and supplies. In the center of the living room was an “Archie Bunker” chair with a table and vise which faced the television.
“Do you know what pattern, size, color that you want?” his wife asked.
“No,” I replied. “I only know how to fish with dry flies. I’ll just take whatever you recommend.”
“Well, I would recommend whatever he has left next to his vise. That’s what he will be using today. When I returned home, I immediately ordered a Thompson vise and supplies from a Herter’s catalogue, and along with a book on fly patterns began copying my few remaining Ted Fay flies. With the river’s recovery after the infamous chemical spill by the railroad in 1991, I could find little change. What I did find was beautiful stretches of a small, freestone stream that stretches almost thirty-five miles from Lake Siskiyou to Lake Shasta. The only difference I experienced was my own difficulty in wading and scrambling down embankments. When I see men in their 70’s out in the middle of a rocky-bedded stream, I sigh with resignation uncertain if I will be able to do the same in ten years.
Although I trekked up and down the river in November and managed to catch a late afternoon caddis hatch and some lone giant October Caddis which put the little fish on the bite, most authorities recommend waiting for spring run-off to subside, noting that late May and June are the early summer kick-off months for fishing the Upper Sacs riffles, runs and beautiful pocket water. Considering the vagaries of snow melt and arrival of insects, anglers in the early summer months are typically greeted by hungry trout and plentiful hatches of stoneflies, caddis and mayflies. Wading in November, my cold, numb feet reminded me that the river is a tailwater, freestone river, and the water that comes out of the lake and drops down into the dark canyon remains cold, in spite of the balmy 70-degree air temperatures. The river also gains more volume of water from tributaries before it meets the lake.
With the help of the Shasta /Trinity Forest Service website, and the StreamTime map, Upper Sacramento River Access, I was able to discover numerous good access points right off Interstate 5. The Forest Service website also offers a hatch chart with suggested patterns courtesy of The Fly Shop. Almost every exit off the interstate leads to good fishing waters. I have included most of these exits. The fishing map can be purchased at Ted Fay Fly Shop in Dunsmuir or The Fly Shop in Redding. Ted Fay Fly Shop’s new address is 5732 Dunsmuir Ave., Dunsmuir, CA 96025, or they may be reached at (530) 235-2969. www.tedfay.com.
http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/shastatrinity/recreation/st-main/st-fishing/rivers/upper-sacramento.shtml
Access Points Northbound on Interstate 5 from Lakehead to Box Canyon Dam above Dunsmuir
Note: Much of the phrasing for directions is taken directly from the forest service website, which is not copyrighted.
1. Dog Creek: Traveling I-5 Northbound, take the Vollmers exit #707. Turn left on Dog Creek Road/Delta Road, and go under the freeway. Travel 0.3 miles and turn left on Fender Ferry Road. Travel approximately one mile down Fender Ferry Road under the freeway bridges, cross railroad tracks and cross a one-lane bridge over the Sacramento River. Park along road after crossing bridge. Walk down the dirt road to the right for river access. You will find some long runs and slow pools during low water.
2. McCardle Flat: Take Vollmers exit 707. Turn left onto Dog Creek Road/Delta Road. Turn right on Delta Road, then turn left onto McCardle Flat Road. Travel 1.0 mile down McCardle Flat Road and turn right onto a gravel road. Go approximately 0.4 miles down the graveled road and park in widened area near railroad tracks, or you may take the dirt road to the right that leads to a parking area downstream with a turn-around and a primitive spot for camping. (The railroad track is very close for those of you who are light sleepers or have sleep disorders!)
3. LaMoine: Take the LaMoine exit. Travel 0.5 mile and turn left at first dirt road (across street from school bus sign on right). Dirt road forks, take right over bridge (Slate Creek). Travel approximately 0.2 miles on dirt road and park along road at top of hill. Walk down the dirt road to the left and head east to the river.
I watched this angler catch two small trout in less than ten minutes on a small dry fly.
4. Pollard Gulch: Take Pollard Flat exit. Turn right at the stop sign. Turn left on Eagle Roost Road. Take an immediate right and follow to a parking area for seven vehicles (Note: No parking spaces for large RVs or trailers). This is a USFS picnic and day use site.
5. Gibson: Take the Gibson exit #714. Follow the road as it circles over the freeway heading south; the road parallels the freeway heading south, then goes east under the freeway, and then parallels river. Park along Gibson Road and walk to river. The further the road heads south, the higher the road is from the river. If you continue, it will meet up with the Pollard Gulch access.
Sims Footbridge, a Civilian Conservation Corp project
6. Sims: Take Sims exit #718. Turn right on Sims Road. Cross railroad tracks and bridge over Sacramento River to a parking lot near a pedestrian bridge. The Sims USFS campground is beautiful and right on the river. The cost per night is $12, but the daily fee will rise to $15 for the 2008 season. The campground closes on the last day of the general fishing season, November 16. I really liked this old campground, but just at the base of the hill is a dirt road that leads back to some railroad land and a primitive camping area with shade. Hey, when you are retired, these are the spots I look for to camp. Right across the tracks is a mini rock gorge, and above it is some nice riffle and run water. (I had some smaller trout torment me here.)
7. Flume Creek Exit: Just before Flume Creek Exit #720, is a large pull-out just off Interstate-5. Follow the open gated road down the hill and downstream along the railroad tracks to Flume Creek. This area offers some great fly fishing water downstream, but I never checked upstream.
8. Conant: Take Conant Road exit 721. Turn right on Conant Road. Turn right at first dirt road. Park on the west side of railroad tracks. Walk east to the river.
9. Sweetbriar: Take exit 723. Trailers and RV’s are not advised on this paved road. Do not cross the one-lane bridge. Park before the bridge. Here is a community that is open to sharing their section of water as noted on a sign. Personally, I wouldn’t feel comfortable fishing with someone peering down at me from a deck as I muffed a cast or slipped on a rock.
10. Castle Crags State Park: Take the Castella / Castle Crag exit #724. (Chevron gas station) The state run campground is open year-around on a self-register payment system of $15 per night and $6 for day use parking. It has sites that will accommodate 27’ RV’s and 24-foot trailers, as well as tent camping. During the summer it can be filled up. For reservations call 1-800-444-7275. The park also has a picnic site across the river. Late in the fall there is not much water here, but in the summer it supposedly fishes very well. Fork up the six bucks because there is no other parking at the picnic site.
11. Soda Creek: Take the Soda Creek exit #726, about 2.5 miles below Dunsmuir. I had two friendly residents of the area direct me to Soda Creek. This was especially heart felt since I had a local give me the “Kiss-my-ass” gesture when I was exiting Scarlet Way! Since I was stopped, I was puzzled by his animosity. Was it the Oregon plates? Well, there are assholes everywhere that don’t want to share. I will remember the two people who gave me unsolicited fishing tips – thank you, guys. Park in the dirt pull-out just before the bridge. Walk downstream past the chained fence and follow the path to a curve in the river that offers a big pool up against a cliff at the base of a riffle.
12. Dunsmuir City Park: Traveling I-5 Northbound, take Central Dunsmuir exit. Turn left onto Dunsmuir Avenue. Travel 0.5 miles and turn left at "Dunsmuir City Park" sign. Follow the road down to the park. Note: The town of Dunsmuir offers numerous access points to the river such as the I-5 Pool and the access at Financial Avenue. Tauhindauli Park is in central Dunsmuir and a paved road leads down to the water. No RV’s, buses or semi-trucks allowed. (This is close to Ted Fay Fly Shop.)
13. Scarlet Way, Dunsmuir: Take Central Dunsmuir exit. Turn left onto Dunsmuir Avenue. Travel 0.8 miles and turn left on Scarlet Way. The road sign is easily missed, but you will see the brass metal sign for Shasta Retreat that arches over the road. Turn right on Cave Avenue. Cross river and railroad tracks, turn left after tracks to dirt parking area. The road here is narrow and winds through a neighborhood.
14. Prospect Avenue, Dunsmuir: From the northbound lane of I-5, take the Dunsmuir Avenue exit #732. Turn left at the stop sign. Travel 0.3 miles and turn right on Prospect Avenue. (Look for the Prospect Avenue Fishing Access sign.) Turn right when the road forks and proceed to the bridge and the parking area. (Narrow road.)
15. Cantara: To locate the Cantera Fishing Access area, exit from I-5 at Central Mt. Shasta. Turn left at the stop sign on Lake Street and proceed over the interstate until it intersects Old Stage Road. Travel 2.5 miles and cross Azalea Road, veering right to continue on Old Stage Road. Travel 0.25 miles and turn right on Cantara Loop Road. Follow the dirt road down some switch-backs to the dirt parking area. (Picnic area) Note: Just as you are descending down the road, you will note a road on the left with an open gate and no restrictive signs. This rough road leads down to the railroad bridge in a picturesque meadow. A commemorative sign acknowledges all the efforts that went into the clean up and restoration of the river after the chemical spill that took place in the vicinity. I found a nice unimproved campsite with no restrictive signs, but don’t tell anyone I said you could “park” for the night. This is a beautiful area, and if you are cautious and wary, you can hike the railroad tracks upstream or downstream to reach less pressured areas of the river. Keep in mind, however, that some of the bridges and narrowing restrictions provide no escape for old farts like me who stumble along watching their feet. When you are my age, you have to hark back to kindergarten warnings: stop, look and listen!
16. Ney Springs: Although the forks of the Upper Sacramento River above Lake Siskiyou offer small fish in small water, for all practicality the Upper Sacramento River is considered to be the outlet of Lake Siskiyou as it plunges out of the lake and down into the steep Box Canyon. The basalt gorge is, practically speaking, impassable. A couple miles down this twisting 100-foot steep walls of rock is the first access to the river. Ney Springs, with its cold water pulled from the bottom of the lake and its infusion of cold spring water, offers a prolonged mayfly hatch during the summer. Conversely, in the fall more optimum water temperatures may be found below the town of Dunsmuir. To locate the Ney Springs access area, exit from I-5 at Central Mt. Shasta. Turn left at the stop sign on Lake Street and proceed over the interstate until it intersects Old Stage Road. (Directly ahead is a fish hatchery.) Turn left on Old Stage Road and then veer right on W.A. Barr Road and cross over Box Canyon Dam. In less than two-tenths of a mile, turn left on Castle Lake Road. Take the first available left turn on a dirt road and travel 1.25 miles, and then turn left at sign that reads Cantara / Ney Springs Wildlife Area. The dirt road is narrow and leads down through a series of switch-backs. (No camping restriction)
General Fishing Regulations 2007:
Open last Saturday in April to November 15
Zone 1: Dam to Scarlet Way in Dunsmuir; zero trout, artificial lures, barb less hooks
Zone 2: Scarlet Way to Sweetbriar – 5 trout, no special gear
Zone 3: Sweetbriar to Lake Shasta – 2 fish, artificial lures, barb less hooks
Zone 2 and 3 are open during the winter with zero limits, artificial lures only and barb less hooks.
Please read current regulations for any changes or restrictions.
Hey! Yes, you! I’m writing all this stuff and wondering if anyone actually reads it. I’d love to get some feedback on any of my articles. Email dave@glaciertoyellowstone.com. Thanks!
]]>Mark Stern, Klamath Area Conservation Director for the Nature Conservancy, remarked that making a marsh was easy, “Just add water.” That and ten years of planning and engineering, 10 million in construction costs and 200,000 pounds of explosive reversed sixty years of farming practices to add 2,500 acres of new marshland to Upper Klamath Lake and Agency Lake. For thousands of year, the Williamson River deposited sediments across a vast delta where the river enters Upper Klamath Lake. However, in the 1950’s 22 miles of dikes were constructed around the delta and along the river to convert rich bottomland wetland soils into farmland. These barriers channeled the lower Williamson River directly into the lake, which eliminated extensive critical habitat for fish and wildlife, as well as a degradation of the lake’s water quality.
Stern described the shortnose and Lost River suckers, which are native fish only to the Klamath Basin, as the counterpart to the canaries in the mind shaft. Since the early 1990’s, fish and wildlife experts, including those from the National Academy of Sciences, have identified the restoration of the wetlands at the Williamson River Delta as one of the highest priorities for recovery of these two endangered fish, along with other fish and wildlife. Although the channel between Upper Klamath Lake and Agency Lake has always been a natural connection, The Williamson River prior to the 1940’s provided many side channels and marsh that connected the lake, which in turn provided sanctuary for larval fish fry to gradually move towards the lake as they migrated down river from their spawning beds upstream.
Photographs courtesy of Tom Templeton, copyright 2007
Matt Barry, Williamson River Delta Preserve Director for the Nature Conservancy, has managed the 6,800-acre wetlands project since 2005. In order to get the most bang for their bucks, Matt coordinated with the Bureau of Land Reclamation to create a computer model on the best spots to breach the existing levies. “We were looking for the best flow spots into the designated flooding area, and we had to assess fish movement, which meant we had to remove many interior levies prior to today’s explosive breaching of over two miles of existing levies.” Each of the four detonated areas ran for almost a half mile. Three thousand holes were dug twelve feet deep on alternating grids ten feet apart. Each hole was packed with 70 pounds of explosives along with boosters.
Adding 17,000 acre feet of water to Agency Lake, the newly flooded lands will offer anglers and waterfowl hunters new water to explore and map. The estimated depth of the newly flooded land is between two and five feet at full pool. Some areas have sunk over the past fifty years due to compressed peat moss and will provide some depressions 6 to 11 feet deep. Although there was some talk about anglers and hunters not being able to drop anchor and technically be trespassing, I talked to two officials who assured me that the issue was deemed by the Nature Conservancy as not being enforceable, although they will consider anyone leaving a boat and entering on private lands as trespassing. When I asked one official how long it would be before a duck hunter was hunting a flooded field, he looked at his watch and said, "Probably now." Gentlemen, I'll see you on the "new marsh."
Dave Archer
]]>So where does a former Montana fly fishing guide residing in Chiloquin, Oregon get his float fishing river fix. Perhaps the nearby Williamson River, maybe the Rogue or the Klamath or even the Trinity, but my choice will probably be the broad, big muscled lower Sacramento River. Flowing from the Keswick dam at the outlet of Lake Shasta, the lower Sacramento River flows through the town of Redding on its way to the San Francisco Bay. Miles of prime trout habitat line both sides of the river all the way down to Red Bluff. Offering four separate salmon runs, along with steelhead, the trout are healthy and fat. According to Michael Caranci, director of outfitters for The Fly Shop in Redding, California, when the dam operators were required to control flows and water temperatures to protect salmon runs and salmon fry, the trout benefited, and the fishing gets better year after year. I met with Michael at The Fly Shop, which may be seen from I-5 just north of the Churn Creek Exit. With October being their busiest month, Michael estimated they would finish the month with close to 400 trips. In spite of the hectic flow of anglers asking to book if there were any cancellations and the phone ringing constantly, Michael took the time to describe and promote the lower Sacramento River. I was impressed, but then maybe that is the reason The Fly Shop was voted the “Top Shop” by the fly fishing industry in 2003.
Two of the most productive months of the year are April and October. March and April basically kick off the season with prolific hydropsyche caddis hatches. The “Mother’s Day Caddis Hatch” bursts on the scene blanketing the air with millions of bugs on warm, sunny days. Michael said, “The trout gorge themselves and eat, eat, eat, but the problem sometime becomes too many of the real thing surrounding an imitation.” The caddis continue to hatch throughout the season and into the summer during the last hour of the day, which provides some good dry fly fishing. Many guides, in spite of the hatches, continue to fish under the surface with sparkle pupas, peeking caddis, Bird’s Nest or bead-head nymphs in size 12 to 14, along with smaller emerger patterns. In May sporadic “hatches” of salmonflies appear through out the system but not on a predictable basis. Each year the salmonflies presence in the river grows.
With rising temperatures of summer often exceeding 100 in July and August, the pressure of anglers on the river wanes, but the fish continue feeding in water temperatures from 55 to 60 degrees. I met a preacher working on his sermon on his tailgate at the Bonnyview Bridge near the water’s edge. He said he liked fishing from his kick boat during the summer. With his legs submerged in cold water and his torso absorbing the hot rays of summer, he said he experiences heaven and hell in the same moment. He told me to emphasize to readers that sitting this close to the water was actually about ten degrees cooler. He said he keeps himself hydrated with lots of water and very busy with good fishing. Typically, however, the first and last hours are the most productive fishing of the day. By late August the nights are cooling and day time temperatures began dropping to the nineties.
By September the first salmon runs appear. By October the salmon are busy building reds and kicking up debris and dislodging nymphs. The trout move in behind the spawning beds and feast on nymphs and the loose eggs that get washed downstream. Michael described it as “salmon omelets.” Michael advised me to be especially vigilant when wading so as to not disturb or destroy the beds, which are easily identified by the light-colored depressions in the gravel. One successful technique to employ during October is a strike indicator, lead split-shot, a single egg pattern and one or two nymphs.
In spite of the increased pressure during October and November, guides spread themselves out over seventy miles. Michel stated thattypically by Thanksgiving or earlier the rains sweep up the valley and blow the river out below Cow and Cottonwood Creek, but it is rare that the upper stretch will be gone for more than a day or two at a time. That is actually one of the big assets of the Lower Sac, that it remains a viable fishery almost all winter long.". Most anglers wait for spring, but Michael pointed out that late winter on the lower Sacramento River offers good fishing between storm fronts. The latter part of the winter does not have the impact on water flows that November and December experience. Although air temperatures hold in the 50’s and 60’s and the fish slow in their feeding activity, more larger fish in the 18-inch range are caught during this time period with an added bonus of late winter baetis hatches. By early spring trout are gorging themselves on alevin, salmon fry, and gaining up to one pound a month from these tiny fish with the egg sacks still attached. If there is a dry fly period, it is in March and April when the caddis return and a new season is heralded.
To contact Michael and book a trip with The Fly Shop, you may reach him by phone at 1-800-669-3474 or at Michael@theflyshop.com or www.theflyshop.com
Launch Ramps and Access Points: Keep in mind that the time of year and the water levels flowing out of the dam determine whether wading is a viable option. Because the current is so strong, I recommend inflatable suspenders and a wading staff. For a detailed guide to the river, I recommend that you purchase the map, Sacramento River Fishing Access & Accommodations. The map may be purchased at The Fly Shop in Redding or by visiting their web site at www.streamtime.com. I welcome all scrutiny, corrections and advice, as this article will be a work in progress over the next year. Contact David Archer at dave@glaciertoyellowstone.com
2007 Shuttle Fees from The Fly Shop:
Posse Grounds as far as Sacramento RV Park…$25
Posse Grounds to Anderson…$30
As high as Bonnyview to Balls Ferry…$35
As high as SAC RV to the Barge Hole (Balls Ferry road near old mouth of Battle Creek)
…$40
As high as Balls Ferry to Jelly’s…$45
As high as Balls Ferry to Bend Bridge…$50
Add map 1
1. Posse Park Boat Launch + Wading: From I-5 take Highway 299 West and make a right onto Auditorium Drive (convention center). You may also reach the Posse Grounds from Cypress Street by turning north on Park Marina Drive, which ends at the convention center. This is the first launch past the A.C.I.D. Irrigation Dam a couple of miles below Lake Shasta’s Keswick Dam. The launch site is behind the rodeo grounds near the convention center and provides good parking for all sized rigs and excellent access to Posse Riffle, as well as the numerous riffles and runs down to Redding’s famous Sundial Bridge. During low water periods in the fall, wading anglers have numerous hot spots they may reach in a half mile stretch below the launch. During the summer months the numerous shaded, picnic spots provide welcome relief when temperatures climb to three digits. Turtle Bay Trail, across from the convention center and downstream from the launch, also provides access.
Two of Redding’s bridges are under construction for the next couple of years. The river has restricted passages in two places.
2. Cypress Street Bridge Area: Exiting from I-5 onto Cypress Street in downtown Redding, move to the left lane and turn left on Hartnell at the light just short of crossing the bridge. This is a business section. Make the first right turn onto Henderson. Look for the sign “Road Ends 400 feet ahead.” Turn right here and drive behind the businesses and park. Take the dirt path towards the Cypress Street bridge or turn downstream fifty yards and fish the riffle and pool by the old bridge abutment. This is a popular spot for the float fishing guides before they cross over and fish the western bank of the river. Crossing the bridge, anglers will find some water above and below the bridge.
3. South Bonnyview Road (Bridge) Launch: This is an excellent boat launch and parking area, although it doesn’t provide good water for fly fishing in the near vicinity. From Posse launch to South Bonnyview is a half day float.
4. Cascade Park: Exit I-5 west on South Bonnyview Road. Turn left on Market Street or Highway 273 and then left again on Girvan and proceed a short distance to Cascade Park. I did not get far without waders. The park is adjacent to islands, although the channel was very shallow. South of the park is Niles Riffle, but I never made it – another time.
5. Anderson River Park (launch): This is another spot that I missed. The Fly Shop provides maps to local wading spots, and this is one of them. South of Redding on I-5, take the Deschutes Road Exit (Factory Outlet Stores). Go west and turn left (north) on Balls Ferry Road and then right on Dodson Lane to Anderson River Park. Follow the trail down river for good riffles. An improved boat launch is located on Rupert Road, which may be accessed from a loop off Dodson Lane.
6. Deschutes Road Bridge: From I-5 take the Deschutes Road Exit a couple of miles east to the Deschutes Road Bridge.
7. Balls Ferry Bridge (Bridge) Launch: From I-5 take the Gas Point Road Exit and follow Balls Ferry Road until it intersects with Ash Creek (sharp corner). Follow Ash Creek about a mile to the boat launch. (The bar here serves a good burger.) It is five miles to Cottonwood, a quaint little town close to I-5.
8. Reading Island: From I-5 take the Gas Point Road Exit and follow Balls Ferry Road until it intersects with Adobe Road. Turn right and proceed to the parking area less than two miles. Maps are not always accurate; the public campground has been closed by the county, and the launch is only good during high flows onto a side channel, and even then for smaller boats. Now, I did talk to a lady who lived close by and was walking her dog. She said she often sees fly fishermen casting on the main stem a short distance from the parking lot.
9. Old Mouth Battle Creek (Launch and primitive camping): The primitive camping is just that – primitive and rocky! Look for a drop off onto a dirt road. There are a couple of water holes to cross, but they are solid underneath. Nonetheless, after a rain this could be a potential mess without four wheel drive. The beach is hard packed cobblestone, and during October it is a popular spot for local salmon anglers (especially during the weekend). It is also a launch for boaters heading up to the Barge Hole just upstream. This section offers a beautiful riffle that left me frustrated and perplexed. I chalked it up to a full moon – not my skills! I talked to two neighborhood river watchers who said that during the caddis hatches the riffle comes alive with trout just at dark. From I-5 take the Jellys Ferry Road, cross the bridge and continue until you crest a plateau and see the river stretching out below you. From the crest, some anglers hike down to the river and fish Lawrence Riffle. As you drop off the crest down the slope, you will see on your left a long beach with a primitive boat launching spot. Just ahead on the left in the trees is the turn-off to this primitive site.
10. Jellys Ferry Bridge (Launch): From I-5 take the Jellys Ferry Road to the bridge and parking area and boat launch. (No camping.) This is a rough boat ramp; during low water periods you will be launching in wet sand and mud. I would recommend 4x4 vehicles after a rain. The site is run by the Department of Interior, but it does not allow camping.
11. Bend Bridge (Launch): From I-5 take the Jellys Ferry Road Exit. Turn right on Bend Ferry Road by the Bend RV Park (916-527-6289) and store and cross the bridge to a county launch site. Fish the Lower Bend Riffle or take the trail on the north side of the parking lot to riffle water upstream.
RV Camping Parks
JGW RV Park: The JGW RV Park is located on Riverland Drive on the west side of Interstate-5, south of the Knighton Road exit. Exit 673 is approximately five miles south of Redding. (530) 365-7965. Reservations: 1 800-469-5910. www.jgwrvpark.com. Email: jgwrvpark@charter.net. (In the north corner of the park is a 5-strand, barb-wire fence. Go around it at the river’s edge and walk upstream 100 yards to a great riffle, where I met a couple of fat rainbows. The resort provides a rough boat launch.
Sacramento River RV Resort: The Sacramento River RV Resort is located on Riverland Drive on the west side of Interstate-5, south of the Knighton Road exit next to JGW RV. Exit 673 is approximately five miles south of Redding. (530) 365-6402. www.sacramentoriverrvresort.com. Email info@sacramentoriverrvresort.com. Beautifully shaded, the resort offers a concrete boat launch for high water conditions and a dirt launch for low water conditions. Launch fees for non-guests is a bargain $3.
Marina RV Park: The Marina RV Park is located at 2615 Park Marina Drive. Although it is not a park like setting with lots of shade, it is within walking distance to restaurants and movie theaters. The launch fee for non-guests is $22.
]]>Can a young pup teach and old dog a new trick? Buddy, my seven month yellow lab, taught Max how to rumble with and retrieve a pissed off Honker on Sunday of the opener. I left Buddy home with Pauline on the opening day. I had invited Steve Barrows to join me, and I didn’t want to be distracted all morning disciplining Hyper-Baby. After my great success last year, I headed out on Saturday prior to opening day. Duck hunters were already out scouting one week in advance. When I climbed the levy to check out last year’s spot on the BLM land, I was disappointed to see dry fields. Last year numerous parties had set up on the corners of the Four-Mile Slough adjacent to Agency Lake. When I went to one of the corners, I could see only a feint trail leading up and over the dyke.
Climbing out of my boat and busting through the willows, I was surprised to see little water except for the long channel, which had very little cover. No one was around. I returned Wednesday, and still I found no established spreads or evidence of passage. I hiked out pulling a decoy cart about three-quarters of a mile and spread out a dozen duck decoys and eight floating honker decoys to hold my spot. A smaller channel drained into the main slough. The closest cover was forty-five yards from the main channel, but there was a small pocket of water that bulged from the drainage ditch just before dumping into the main channel. It seemed like as good a spot as any, but I was troubled that no one was around.
Friday I returned with another two dozen decoys and my portable blind and all the materials that I would need to hide two hunters and a dog. This time there was another boat, but I had no idea where they had headed. I set everything up for the next morning. Shooting time came and went without incident. Miles away everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves. The other party had walked another half mile past us, and they were very active. A few ducks flew by us along the water’s edge too far to shoot. I theorized that we would get some action mid-morning when fleeing ducks looked for quiet water. But then the geese started flying. We called one or two small flocks towards us for one or two passes, but each time they would flair or fly by us at about fifty yards. Finally, we saw four Canada Geese cross the channel about two hundred yards down from us. We called to them and pulled them in for five wide, looping passes. We were sure they would land, but then on the last pass they refused. Again, they crossed in front of us at about fifty yards. We picked up three ducks and then broke for a nap in the afternoon.
Sitting up from a rest, I watched as about a hundred mallards dropped into the field of tulles about two hundred yards behind us. I had rejected going into the tulles because the water slicks floating over the mud are treacherous and lethal to a lone hunter. Putting out my decoys two feet from the shoreline the previous day, I had dropped into the mud up to my chest. I could barely extricate myself. Fortunately, I could reach a rusted metal fence post to help me ashore.
I decided to explore. Steve found a willow staff and walked across two small rivets of mud. I was encouraged and left Steve in the blind and took Max out into the tulle field. Two hundred yards out I found inter-locking, skinny patches of water and jumped all those mallards, knocking down one drake. We set up six decoys there for the late afternoon. We had numerous mallards slip behind us, surprise us or land just out of range. The next day I decided to pick up my decoys and knock down the blind. I arrived late in the morning, after wandering in circles in the fog out on Agency Lake in my Gator-Trax boat and Mud-Buddy motor. Hyper-Baby and Max were out of control on my approach to the water slick. I didn’t dare yell at them as they got out of range for fear of jumping a bunch of birds. Both dogs were ahead of me and off to my left. Breaking out into the open, they put up about forty honkers.
I dropped down into some high grass and fumbled to shuck my decoy bag and un-sling my shotgun that was strung over my head. As luck would have it, a small group broke my way, and I had just enough time to rise up from my knees and dump one goose. I am a man with limited expectations, and low levels of success satisfy me in the field. I declared my weekend a success. I quickly selected a patchy island in this prairie pot-hole and tossed out a dozen dekes. Within twenty minutes I worked a flock of green-heads around my blind twice. They didn’t brake for a landing as they flew over me at twenty-yards. I decided I wanted to bring them in for a classic landing. I peeked up and could see their eyes, their beaks, their green heads, their feet, and of course, they could see me. Pale-white face with shinny glasses, say goodbye, dummy. Some duck hunters are destined to repeat the same old mistake over and over again.
Ten minutes later I called in a flock of geese. They made two passes, and locked their wings fifty yards out heading straight into my back. I squirreled down into the mud and watched their silent approach through heavy foliage of green tulles. Both of my dogs were frozen in place totally visible to the approaching B57 bombers. At 63 I am a bit slower to stand up from a squatting position. When I did rise and throw up my shotgun, the leaders were eye level at ten yards. Bang! I dropped a goose that broke to my right. I moved the barrel up into the sky to pick up a second goose. Bang! He wobbled but did not fold so I dropped him with my third shot. I have never taken three birds in the air on three shots. Had the second goose dropped with one shot, I believe I would have had my first triple, a feat that has eluded me with the exception of shooting out of a scull boat.
Both of the geese were up walking ten yards away having been shot with number two steel shot in three-inch casings. I couldn’t shoot them in the mud as my dogs were right on top of them. Buddy charged right at the closest goose and knocked the goose down with his chest. In his charge he lost his footing on impact and flipped over the goose. His feet flailed in the mud and air, and by the time he spun around, the goose charged him and boxed him with both wings. Buddy feinted and lunged at the goose, but not before he had been pecked and hissed at. Max, my timid eight-year old black lab who will not retrieve a wounded goose, jumped back out of the way of the brawl before him. He sat down and watched the fight safely out of the way.
Buddy had knocked the goose down twice, but each time the goose would jump to its feet and attack Buddy. Buddy was unflinching and kept charging the goose, knocking it down and then trying to grab a good hold. Each time he attempted to drag the goose across the mud, the goose would escape his hold and attack. At one point Buddy was dragging the goose by its ass while ignoring the pecks to his head. Finally Buddy nailed the goose by the neck and held the goose’s head under the water. The goose expired, and Buddy made his first retrieve dragging the goose ten yards to my feet. I set the two geese along the mud bank behind us and returned to the blind with the two dogs. Not to be out done, Max had run to the other cripple and brought him to me. Buddy would not let me hug or congratulate him. He stood sentry staring at the two geese. About five minutes later I saw Buddy jump to all fours. His goose had stood up and was walking out onto the mud flats! Before I could shoot it, Buddy charged, and it was round two. This time Buddy took him by the neck and dragged him back. I wrung the goose’s neck. I always shoot a wounded bird until it is dead. I never want a downed bird to experience fear and panic. At no time was I able to shoot either goose without endangering my dogs. The goose’s second demise, however, proved a valuable learning experience for Buddy. He took the goose by the neck and brought him to me. Hunting alone in the field just got safer. I won’t call Buddy anymore names like, Ugly Buddy, Hyper-Baby or Needle Nose. He’s my good old duck hunting Buddy!
Second Saturday of the Season
I packed light this time, and I carried everything on a cart, and yet I am still exhausted. I worked a flock of specs right over me with no goose decoys and dropped one. Later I brought in a large flock of Honkers. I could have had...should have had...might have had a double but I had only one shell in the gun! I was a great day, and in addition to the two geese I dropped four ducks. Max still refuses to retrieve a goose, although he will lead me through the tulles to the downed bird. Buddy was stubborn, uncooperative on the retrieves and bolting out of the blind, usually in the wrong direction, every time I shot. He was a pain in the ass, but I realize he is only seven months and we have much work ahead of us. At 63 I am feeling my age when I have to haul materials and supplies a mile out into the marsh. The cart helps, but the last 100 yards I have to haul everything on my back, and two geese and four ducks really adds to the load. I think I will design an aluminum cart with heavy bicycle tires or motorcycle tires. It will be a two-man cart pulled in the front and pushed from behind. It will have two swivel seats and a breakdown blind. I still haven't got around to painting my boat blind. Everyone I have talked to has done quite well on Agency Lake this year
If any duck hunter stumbles on this entry and has experience with carts, email me.
Dave Archer / dave@glaciertoyellowstone.com
]]>Length: 15’-3” to 17-feet
Bottom: 50”
Beam: 72”
Side Height: 19”
Height to Cockpit Rim: 23”
Bow deck: 45”
Cockpit width: 52-1/2”
Cockpit length: 11-feet
Aluminum thickness: 1/8” (All welded)
Mud Motor Ready!
Cost: The price of aluminum keeps climbing, and I do not get the cost discounts that large boat companies receive. I will sell my boat at comparable pricing. The advantage of buying my boat is that you gain the side decks and cockpit at no additional charge. I will also discount the removable and adjustable aluminum Duck-Boat Blind, if you order both the boat and blind. You also will save on shipping if you pick it up. Currently I am not Coast Guard Approved, although I anticipate I will have jumped through all their hoops and trials prior to the 2008 duck season. I will not be producing any boats during the 2007 duck season. Later I will post photographs of the boat painted with a Duck Boat Blind.
September 16, 2007
Dave Archer
541-783-3796
Here is a versatile duck-cart blind that can be used to haul trash cans to the curb or all your gear down a gated road. It can be built to fit the hunter. This one is just big enough to fit myself and a 75-pound lab. It is designed for a maximum water depth of 18 inches. Note that the handles retract and slide into a larger diameter pipe. The front opening swings open. Grass mats drop right over pegged pipes. Use burlap for the side profile. This model is tight and light at 23" x 48". The cost of this model unpainted is $600. Ask me about a 2-man model where the hunter in the rear pushes the blind-cart like a grocery cart.
Dave Archer
dave@glaciertoyellowstone.com
541-783-3796
The Hi-Lo Duck Boat Blind has two great advantages. One – it is welded aluminum tube in 1-1/2 and 1-inch schedule 40 for durability and strength. The support platform is 2” channel, 1’x2” rectangular tubing and 1”x1” tubing. Two – the canopy and the front rail are both adjustable. Finally, the Hi-Lo Boat Duck Blind is detachable for the fishing season. As of fall 2007 a custom blind for a 16 to 18-foot boat is based on current aluminum pricing. ($603 just for the aluminum on the boat pictured below. )
2007 Pricing for Hi-Lo Duck Blind (grass mats not included): $1,000 to $1500 depending on options.
Hi-Lo Duck Blind for 12-foot to 14-foot boats: $500 to $1,000 depending on options.
I require a 50% deposit and a two week time period to build the blind on your boat.
My home and shop is 100 yards from the Wood River Wetland entrance on Agency Lake. A final note - I include two aluminum field irrigation pipe segments for dropping in branches. If you want to move out from the shoreline, drop some tree branches in the slots!
Dave Archer
541-783-3796
39441 Modoc Point Road
Chiloquin, OR 97624
Email: dave@glaciertoyellowstone.com
Update- November 2, 2008
Scott Cook, owner of Fly and Field Shop , in Bend, Oregon recently gave a presentation to the Klamath Country Fly Casters, where he stated that great gains have been made at Crane Prairie Reservoir for the future of those famous Cranebows. The bass populations have leveled, and the average bass size has declined. One reason for this success has been the stocking of larger trout, which can escape the predatory jaws of bass. With the average size of rainbows reaching between 17 and 19-inches, stomach contents of both bass and trout show that the stickleback minnow has two predators now! So, keep this in mind as you read the following disaster story, which may indeed have a happy ending. Northwest Fly Fishing magazine has a feature article on Crane Prairie in their November/December 2008 edition.
2006
A pox on every fishing guide writer and publisher who keeps regurgitating the same old glorification of a famed fly fishing water that has devolved into an ecological disaster! A pox on every damned bucket biologist who denigrates or destroys a body of water for his own selfish fishing interest. Having departed from my usual objective, quasi-journalistic writing style, be prepared as, "I'm mad as hell, and I am not going to take it anymore!" Like most anglers, however, I am powerless. So too it would seem, short of using the poison, retenone, are the government agencies that control our waterways. This summer it has been particularly painful returning to Yellowstone Lake only to find that the lake trout have devastated the cutthroat fishery, or my sadness in returning to Rock Creek to witness the impact of Whirling Disease on one of my favorite creeks. And now, when I finally get to Crane Prairie, I am told, "You should have been here in the 70's or 80's or even the early 90's.
Although some of the anglers I chatted with said that the lake was once again gradually improving, most said that they return to the lake to fish for larger, trophy size fish. Some of the anglers that I spoke with have been fishing the lake for years and are local residents. Most anglers now are bait fisherman who anchor their boats and fish the same spot for hours hoping to catch a solitary cruiser on power bait, worms, and dragon fly nymphs. Bass fishermen work the drowned timber stands, and trollers motor up and down the channels. What is missing is the large numbers of fly anglers who plied the lake. I realize that it would seem pretentious for me to write an article based on one weekend of exploring, and yet the sadness of this story compels me to vent. Perhaps I am in need of a catharsis after witnessing so many of these ecological disasters in a short span of time. However, Crane Prairie is not all "Doom and Gloom." The reservoir consistently produces huge trophy trout for anglers dedicated enough to learn its secrets. I spoke to two such men. One of the men spoke of spending five seasons on the lake before he could consistently catch trophy size trout. Another man claimed he was still a learner after seven years. Although most of the local guides have shifted to more productive waters to satisfy their clients need to catch numbers rather than trophies, a few guides have remained on the lake. I have included the name of one guide that I met and chatted with briefly. I include his contact information at the end of this article only because I ran into a couple who have hired him a couple of times and just gushed with praise for the man's skills and knowledge. Let's start with an excerpt from the web site of Oregon's Department of Fish and Wildlife.
"Home of the famous "cranebows", Crane Prairie Reservoir is one of the top producing rainbow trout fisheries in Central Oregon. Rainbow trout here average 2 inches of growth a month during the summer. The record rainbow to date weighed over 19 pounds, with abundant rainbows in the 4 to 10 pound range. Crane Prairie Reservoir is a Wildlife Management Area. Osprey, bald eagle and many waterfowl frequent the area. Crane Prairie Reservoir is located on the Deschutes National Forest and is a large, shallow impoundment on the upper Deschutes River approximately 30 miles southwest of Bend and is accessible from Century Drive (Forest Service Road 46), and Forest Roads 40, 42, and 4270. Crane Prairie was a natural meadow in which the Deschutes River, Cultus River, Cold Creek, Quinn River, Deer Creek, and Cultus Creek Converged. Crane Prairie Reservoir was first created in 1922 by rock filled dam and reconstructed by Bureau of Reclamation in 1940. The inundated trees and five square miles of shallow water coupled with cool water inlets make Crane Prairie Reservoir a very rich and productive aquatic system producing numerous trophy size rainbow trout.
ODFW Management Policies for Crane Prairie Reservoir
Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife currently manages rainbow trout at Crane Prairie Reservoir for natural and hatchery production consistent with the Featured Species Fish Management Alternative for trout. Mountain Whitefish, brook trout, and kokanee are managed for natural and hatchery production consistent with the Basic Yield Management Alternative for trout. Largemouth bass shall be managed for natural production consistent with the Basic Yield Management Alternative for warm water fish."
http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/centraloregon/recreation/fishing/lake-reservoir/craneprairie.shtml
Now, here are the facts never mentioned in fishing guide books or blurbs on promotional tourism sites. In the mid 80's some bucket biologist dumped largemouth bass into Crane Prairie. Although Crane Prairie has wild and sustaining populations of rainbows and Brook Trout, the bulk of the fish caught are planters. Once the alarm cry was sounded about the growing bass population, they were already big, bold and hungry! The 3-4 inch trout plants became bass chow. The Oregon biologists steadfastly proclaimed that few of the transplanted trout were preyed upon by the bass. Wishful thinkers theorized that the two populations would tend to gravitate to their own preferred waters. The bass population flourished, and Crane Prairie established itself as one of Oregon's premier bass lakes. Fly anglers gradually declined from their proportionately high numbers. To add insult to injury, bucket biologists struck again introducing the Three-spined stickleback minnow, which many anglers that I spoke to feel are responsible for the crash of the damsel flies and dragon flies on the lake. Here is an excerpt from an ODFW report found on-line.
"Three-spined stickleback have been present in Crane Prairie Reservoir since the early 1990s. This species was an illegal introduction and likely released to provide forage for warm water species in the reservoir which were also illegal releases. Schistocephalus is a common parasite in stickleback. High productivity of the reservoir and conditions favorable for completing the tapeworm life history contribute to a high incidence of occurrence of the tapeworm in stickleback. Fish samples collected in 2000 and 2001 were provided to ODFW pathologists for analysis. No incidence of Schistocephalus infection was found in fish species other than stickleback. Schistocephalus were found in digestive tracts of trout along with three-spined stickleback parts indicating that trout had ingested stickleback with parasite infestations. Largemouth bass diet studies have also shown secondary ingestion of Schistocephalus resulting from consumption of stickleback. [Now, note this disclaimer.] There is currently no evidence linking Schistocephalus occurrence to the decline of rainbow trout in Crane Prairie Reservoir."
To butcher an old folk song, "Where have all the rainbows gone, long time passing...." One government report stated that the illegal bass introduction "disturbed" the trout populations. Disturbed - what an interesting word choice for a biologist to use. It almost sounds, well, scientific! What has been reported is a declining population of young bass and trout. Terry Schrader from ODFW states that, "the stickleback [illegally dumped into the lake to provide forage for bass] out competes the young of these species and has also changed the dominant form of zooplankter." This in turn has produced high levels of toxic cyanobacteria that is potentially fatal to pets and young children. Another factor, similar to what happened in Diamond Lake with the illegal introduction of chubs, is the increased likelihood of algal blooms. So, Mr. Bucket Biologist, what a fine mess you have got us into.
And now the good news. Bass populations are in decline both in size and in numbers. (I can not substantiate this statement, but it was a consensus.) During the last two years ODFW has been planting trout from 8 to 9 inches. These larger size plants have a greater life expectancy in escaping the jaws of large trout and bass. I fished one entire day for bass in the north end of the lake by the resort. I caught one bass. The second day I explored the southern end of the lake and finally was able to locate some fly fishermen to interview. Since I have no experience in catching trout or bass (yet), I have compiled the following information for first time anglers and campers to the lake. It would seem prudent for anyone planning to fly fish Crane Prairie to go out with a guide. As I mentioned earlier in the article, I did meet one guide who was both friendly and helpful. The next day I spoke to a couple who were heading out on the lake in a drift boat. They spoke glowingly of the same guide, Brett Dennis. He may be contacted at 541-598-0008.
Camping: For RV camping with full hook-ups, contact Crane Prairie Resort at PO Box 1171, Bend, Oregon 97709. (541) 383-3939. Located 33 miles from Bend and 20 miles from Sunriver, the resort offers full RV Hookups, boat rentals, tackle, gas, moorage, groceries, guide service and showers and laundry. It is right next to the Forest Service Crane Prairie Campground.
Forest Service Campgrounds:
Crane Prairie Campground: Offering 146 sites and a boat launch at the northern end of the lake, the campground offers trailer and RV camping and a special designated tent camping section right on the lake. The roads are paved and two boat launches are provided. Users will need to pay a $5 use fee for launching their boats if they are not camped. Premium sites cost $12 per night. (2007) Showers may be paid for at the adjoining resort.
Quinn River Campground and Rock Creek Campground: Both campgrounds are located on the southern end of the lake off the Cascade Lakes Highway #46, which may be accessed from Highway 58 or from Bend. Both of these campgrounds have boat ramps and places along the shore to moor your boat for the evening. (Take in all your valuables at night as thefts occur.)
Trout Fishing: I can't proffer any advise on fishing tactics other than what I have learned from chatting with fellow anglers over a two day period. Here is what I learned. Because the lake averages nine to eleven feet water depth, trout tend to seek sanctuary in the old river channels when water temperatures climb. At the southern end of the lake, five river channels cross the broad body of water. In the spring and fall the trout tend to disperse into cooler water. With declining numbers of fish, target the channels exclusively during the summer months. Seasoned anglers map holes and springs with GPS. The channels are easy to locate if you have a fish finder that displays depth. On my last day my step-son joined us. As we cruised around looking at the channels and marking fish, I told him of a strategy I learned from bass anglers. If you are fishing a lake arm with a river channel, use a series of buoy markers to mark the channel. I pulled one out that I had bought from Cabela's. Simply drop the weighted marking buoy overboard. When the weight hits the bottom, the buoy stops unwinding, and you can turn the boat around and anchor. Twenty minutes later I saw the splay of fly line shimmering in the skyline from an anchored boat. When I glassed the boat, I spied a familiar fluorescent orange marker buoy. Most fly fishers use large strike indicators with chironomid nymphs. Other successful patterns are dragonfly nymphs, leech patterns and Woolly Buggers. An excellent resource is Scott Richmond's book, Crane Prairie - Deschutes Headwaters, published by Frank Amato.
Bass Fishing: Although I spotted a few bass fishermen in the Cultus Channel, the majority of bass anglers worked the drowned trees on the west side of the lake above and below the Quinn Channel.
I hope to expand this article on my return trips when I begin work on a Highway 97 and High 395 companion site.
Dave Archer
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